By Sam Sifton

I am a big fan of fried chicken, and this is a terrific “how to.” It is a basic yet delicious recipe for buttermilk fried chicken with a crisp crust. Learn this recipe and perfect your frying technique, and then try adding some paprika or cayenne to the dredge, or a bit of hot sauce to the brine. Sam Sifton suggests drizzling hot honey over it all before serving. (To make one, simply heat a half cup of honey in a small pot set over low heat and shake in red pepper flakes or hot pepper sauce to taste.) I just like my fried chicken plain.

Ingredients and Preparation

Yield: 4 servings

1 chicken, approximately 3 to 3½ pounds, cut into 10 pieces (or use a mix of thighs and drumsticks)

3 to 4 cups buttermilk

3 tablespoons kosher salt, more as needed

2 teaspoons ground black pepper, more as needed

1½ cups all-purpose flour

3 cups peanut oil, or a neutral oil like canola, more as needed

Step 1: The Brine

Place chicken pieces in a bowl and toss them with buttermilk, 2 tablespoons salt and a healthy grind of black pepper. Cover and marinate for at least an hour and up to a day.

(The Brine: To brine a chicken means to submerge it in a solution of salt and water, sometimes flavored with other ingredients, in order to add moisture and flavor to the meat.)

(BUTTERMILK BRINE: For many fried chicken aficionados, the only acceptable brine is made with buttermilk. Add the chicken to it, cover and place in the refrigerator for a few hours and up to overnight.)

Step 2

Combine flour, 1 tablespoon salt and 2 teaspoons pepper in a large bowl or, ideally, a paper bag large enough to accommodate the flour and the pieces of chicken.

Step 3

Pour oil into a large, heavy-bottomed cast-iron skillet with high sides and a lid, to a depth of a few inches. Heat oil over medium-high heat to 350 degrees. (Any heavy, lidded pot will do.)

Step 4

Set a rack on a baking sheet or tray. Place the chicken pieces in the paper bag filled with the flour mixture and shake well to coat, or toss them in the bowl with the flour mixture to achieve a similar result.

Step 5

Shake off excess flour and fry the pieces of chicken skin-side down, in batches so as not to crowd the pan, for about 5 to 15 minutes, covered by the lid. Remove the lid, turn over the chicken pieces, and cook for about 5 to 15 minutes more, uncovered, until they are cooked through and a deep golden brown. Color is as or more important than time: Watch your chicken and get it out when it’s golden brown.

Step 6

Remove chicken to the rack to drain and rest, sprinkle with salt and serve warm or at room temperature.

A few tips: Use tongs to turn the chicken a few times while it cooks. And, crucially, do not crowd the pan. You want plenty of oil surrounding each piece of chicken, but not so much that it spatters everywhere.