Author Archives: robertaklapper

and Memorie di Angelina’s Sunday Sauce (revised)

(This is it! The Italian meatball recipe I have been searching for, but first the sauce.)

Angelina’s Sunday Sauce

*Ingredients for sauce (see note below first)

Makes one large pot of sauce, enough for a crowd

For the initial browning of meats:

• 6 mild Italian sausages
• 6 pork or beef ribs
• 3-4 pork chops (optional)
• 3-4 braciole (optional)
• Lard (or olive oil)

For making the soffrito and flavoring the browned meats:

• 2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped
• 1-2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
• Salt and pepper
• Red wine (optional)

For the sauce:

• 4-5 large cans (800g/28 oz) of best quality tomatoes, whole or crushed
• A few sprigs of fresh parsley
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions

In as big a pot or casserole as you have available, begin by lightly browning your sausages and ribs—and, if using, braciole and pork chops—in lard over medium heat. Yes, you read that right: lard. You can use olive oil if you like, but for the real taste of ragù, lard is a must. (And there is no better fat for browning, by the way.) Brown as many pieces at a time as will fit in your pot in a single, well-spaced layer. (If you crowd the pieces of meat, they will steam and not brown.) Do not rush the process; take your time and brown them gently, so they render their fat and don’t darken too much. Remove the pieces to a bowl or dish as they brown, replacing them with other pieces.

When all the pieces of meat are brown, remove any remaining in the pot and add a generous amount of chopped onion and allow it to sweat until it is quite soft. Then add a clove or two of chopped garlic and, when you can just begin to smell their aroma, add back the browned meat. Turn the meat with the onion and garlic and simmer them together gently to allow the meat to insaporire (absorb the flavor of the aromatics), seasoning with salt and pepper as you turn. (If you have some spare red wine on hand, add a splash at this point and allow it to evaporate completely. If you don’t have red wine, not to worry; Angelina actually didn’t add wine to her ragù, but many recipes call for it, and it does add a nice additional layer of flavor.)

Then add the best quality canned tomatoes that you can find , passing them through a food mill into the pot, enough to cover the meats entirely. (Some recipes call for tomato paste, but I find this makes the sauce too heavy.) Nestle a sprig or two of fresh parsley among the meats. Lower the heat, partially cover the pot, and let the sauce to simmer very slowly for at least 2-3 hours, until the sauce is thick and dark and very flavorful. Along the way, add your meatballs, which you will have fried separately in oil.

Sunday Sauce is best made a day ahead, but you can use it immediately if you like.

*Note: I make this sauce using 2-3 28oz. cans of Muti chopped tomatoes. (No need for a food mill.) I also use 1 large beef short rib, one large pork chop on the bone, and sometimes some sweet pork sausage. (Definitely use olive oil.) If necessary, after final seasoning, you can add some honey to taste.

Ingredients for Meatballs (Dina)

For every pound of meat, do: 1/2 ground beef (80%), 1/4 ground veal, and 1/4 ground pork, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon of salt

Add to taste, fresh parsley, Parmesan cheese, and garlic

Take stale Italian bread, soak in water with a little milk, then break it up to make breadcrumb/like mixture.

Mix it all together, make meatballs, and fry them in oil. Add to sauce.

Note: My interpretation:

garlic: 1 large clove, finely chopped, should be enough for 2 pounds of meat.

Parmesan cheese: about 1/4-1/2 cup, freshly grated, for 2 pounds of meat.

*Stale bread: For 2 pounds of meat, let about 4 slices of bread sit out for a few hours. Remove crusts and cut bread into cubes; it should equal 2 cups. In a shallow dish, cover cubes with water and milk; drain.

A new, contemporary Chinese restaurant on the upper west side of Manhattan offers a different take on Chinese food.

Owned by two recent graduates of Columbia University, the menu flies to the four corners of China for its inspiration. 

Dishes from Hunan province — where sour and spicy flavors and dried, smoked, and pickled ingredients are prized — have a major presence on the menu. Sichuan food is also a frequent menu inspiration. (We ordered their Hunan Style Fried Rice, which is spicy, and asked for a milder version. They kindly complied.)

If you are not an adventurous eater, the menu has a section devoted to American Chinese food where you will find old favorites such as Sesame Chicken, Beef and Broccoli, Prawn with Garlic Sauce and much more.

Their vegetable selection is extensive. We started with Okra with Garlic Sauce, and I’m looking forward to returning and trying some of their other offerings. All the dishes were not only delicious, but beautifully presented as well. Yes, to a repeat!!

Update: May 22, 2025. This blog post was written in February, 2022, so when returning to the upper westside, we decided to revisit this wonderful Chinese restaurant. Major disappointment. Restaurant is now rather shabby, and the food  was fair to middling. One dish was especially terrible – their soup dumplings. Skins were inedible. Sorry, I can no longer recommend this restaurant.

Fresh lemongrass is best here, but if you can’t find it, then lemongrass paste works well too.

Ingredients

CHICKEN AND MARINADE

• ▢ 600 – 800g / 1.2 – 1.6lb chicken thigh fillets , skinless and boneless or breast (or pork, beef or any seafood)
• ▢ 1 stalk lemongrass , white part only, bruised them sliced into pieces easy to pick out later (Note 1)
• ▢ 2 garlic cloves , finely chopped or minced
• ▢ 2 tbsp lime juice
• ▢ 2 tbsp fish sauce (Note 2)
• ▢ 1 tbsp soy sauce (all purpose or light, NOT dark soy)
• ▢ 2 tbsp brown sugar
• ▢ 1 tbsp vegetable oil

NUOC CHAM (VIETNAMESE SAUCE)

1. ▢ 1/4 cup fish sauce (Note 3)
2. ▢ 4 tbsp rice vinegar
3. ▢ 2 tbsp white sugar
4. ▢ 1/2 cup water
5. ▢ 2 garlic cloves , finely chopped
6. ▢ 1 red birds eye chilli , finely chopped (or red pepper flakes)
7. ▢ 3 tbsp lime juice

NOODLE BOWL

• ▢ 200 g / 7 oz vermicelli noodles , dried
• ▢ 2 carrots , julienned
• ▢ 2 cucumbers , julienned (optional: remove seeds)
• ▢ 5 cups iceberg lettuce , finely sliced
• ▢ 3 cups bean sprouts
• ▢ Handful of mint leaves
• ▢ Handful of cilantro/coriander
• ▢ Sliced red chilli (for garnish – optional)
• ▢ Lime wedges (to serve – optional but recommended)

Instructions

LEMONGRASS CHICKEN

• Combine Chicken and Marinade ingredients and set aside for at least 1 hour, up to 24 hours.
• Heat 1 tbsp oil in a fry pan over medium heat (or heat the BBQ). Remove chicken from marinade, shaking off large bits of lemongrass (small bits should fall off during cooking).
• Place chicken in the pan and cook each side until dark golden brown and chicken is just cooked through – about 6 to 8 minutes in total. 
• Remove from pan, shaking off any remaining bits of visible lemongrass and set aside to rest for 5 minutes. Then slice into thin pieces.

NUOC CHAM SAUCE

• Combine the Nuoc Cham ingredients and mix well to dissolve the sugar. Adjust to your taste (spiciness, lime, sweetness) and set aside for at least 20 minutes.

ASSEMBLE

• Soak the vermicelli noodles in hot water for 3 minutes (or according to packet instructions), then drain and rinse under cold water to stop the noodles from sticking together.
• Individual servings: Place noodles in bowl. Top with vegetables and herbs, and sliced chicken pieces. Drizzle with a few tablespoons of Nuoc Cham Sauce (be generous, ~ 4 tbsp per serving) and serve with lime wedges.

Note: After marinating the chicken, I placed it in the pan and cooked each side until golden brown. I didn’t shake off the marinade and brushed more on while it was cooking. Since I used the whole thigh with skin, I then oven roasted it for about 15 minutes at 400* to make sure it was ready. Served it whole on top of noodles. 🙂

I never thought I would ever say this, but “run, don’t walk” to Edith’s Eatery on Leonard Street in Brooklyn. It was amazing! The food is influenced by the Jewish diaspora and explores the global flavors and cultural experience of Jewish cuisine, however one doesn’t have to be Jewish to enjoy it.

Dishes we tried: Malawach, a buttery Yemenite Jewish flatbread with a side of bright green zhug (an Israeli condiment), Syrniki Pancakes, traditional Russian-style pancakes made with a farmer cheese soufflé, tart currant syrup and smetana (sour cream), and a Middle eastern breakfast consisting of mergez, eggs, malawach, and an Israeli salad. Loved it all!

Another restaurant I would like to recommend is Maman, a French bakery and cafe located on the upper west side. It is one of a chain of restaurants located in the city, but there are also two in Brooklyn and two in Canada.

We tried the croissant perdu sandwich (parisian ham, comté cheese, dijon mustard & pickles), maman’s breakfast sandwich (homemade bourbon bacon jam, avocado & oven roasted tomatoes topped with a fried egg on a cornmeal focaccia bun) and ratatouille hash* (ratatouille served over crispy smashed potatoes topped with a fried egg, green goddess dressing & cilantro.) The croissant sandwich is quite small but really tasty.

For desert, we shared a hazelnut praline croissant bun.
Delicious!

I would suggest that you arrive at both restaurants before 11:00 am, otherwise the wait time can be lengthy.

Some of Edith’s offerings

We returned to Edith’s for a family visit and, once again, found the meal to be just wonderful. This time we tried their fish platter with a homemade bagel and bialy (hot out of the oven), and their chicken schnitzel with corn bread, along with our favorite pancakes and the Malawach. Family was really impressed!!!

It’s been awhile since I recommended a restaurant to you (having eaten at several), just none that I felt were worth reporting on. However, this Japanese restaurant had ended the dry spell. It is not inexpensive, but a meal here is a treat. As you can imagine, they specialize in sushi, but their appetizers and entrees were excellent.

To start our meal, my daughters and I ordered gyoza, tofu with fish flakes, scallions, and ginger, and goma-ae, boiled spinach tossed with a sesame sauce. Then, from their kitchen, I devoured (but well-mannered) a tempura udon while they enjoyed sushi. The delicate tempura, consisting of vegetables and shrimp, was lightly battered and deep fried to create a light, crisp coating.

This restaurant is one of four in the city. For me, it’s definitely a repeat!

This is another recipe from The Fairmount Temple Sisterhood Cookbook, Cleveland, Ohio, 1957.

Ingredients:

3 Large potatoes (I used Yukon gold.)

1 large onion

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt (or to your taste)

3 Tablespoons of flour

8 Tablespoons of melted butter, divided (Oil can be substituted for butter.)

3 eggs

Directions: Heat oven to 400.* Add 4 Tablespoons of butter to baking dish and place in oven. Grate potatoes and onion (by hand or processor). Squeeze out as much liquid as you can and drain well. Mix in all dry ingredients, then add rest of melted butter. Beat eggs and blend in. When the butter is very hot in the baking dish, pour in the pudding mixture. Bake uncovered for about one hour or until brown.

Note: Squeeze the grated potatoes and onions in a strainer over a bowl. When the liquid is poured off, there will be potato starch left in the bottom of the bowl. Add this to the mix.

New recipe:

This potato kugel’s crunchy top gives way to a super-soft, almost mashed-potato center, and the soft aroma of onion will fill your kitchen. —Francis Lam

Yield: Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients:

• 6 large Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and coarsely shredded (or about 3 pounds)
• 5 eggs
• 1/2 to 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1-2 teaspoons black pepper
• 2 medium onions, coarsely shredded
• 6 tablespoons olive oil, plus 4-6 tablespoons more for greasing pan
• 3/4 cup matzoh meal
• ¼ teaspoon baking powder, optional

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
2. When oven is preheated, add 4-6 tablespoons of olive oil to a 9×13 Pyrex dish and put into the oven to heat up.
3. Whisk eggs together in a large bowl with salt and pepper
4. Using a food processor fitted with the grating plate (or by hand), grate the onion and then the potato. Quickly add the potatoes and onions to the eggs, and add the oil, matzoh meal, and baking powder, if using. Mix well.
5. When oil has been heating about 10 minutes, remove from oven.
6. Add a small spoonful of the potato mixture and if it starts sizzling, it is hot enough. If not, put it back in the oven for a few minutes.
7. When oil is ready, add the entire potato mixture and spread in a even layer using an offset spatula or large spoon.
8. Bake for 40-50 minutes until crispy around the edges and golden brown on top.
9. Allow to cool slightly before cutting into squares. Serve warm or room temperature.

NYT recipe by Dorie Greenspan,

Lemon poppy seed cake is my all time favorite dessert. I like this recipe, because it is made strictly by hand. The only fault I find is that I would prefer more of a lemon taste. Perhaps doubling the amount of lemon juice from 2-4 tablespoons and adding more juice to the glaze would give it the lemony taste I’m looking for.

FOR THE CAKE:

• 5 ½ tablespoons/78 grams unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus softened butter for the pan
• 1 ½ cups/192 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1 ¼ cups/250 grams granulated sugar
•  Finely grated zest of 1 lemon or 1 tangerine, plus 2 tablespoons juice
• 4 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 ½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• ½ cup/120 milliliters heavy cream, at room temperature
• ⅓ cup/47 grams poppy seeds

FOR THE GLAZE (OPTIONAL):

• 1 cup/120 grams confectioners’ sugar
• 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• ½ teaspoon poppy seeds, for sprinkling

Directions:

Make the cake: Center a rack in the oven and heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour an 8 1/2-inch loaf pan. Place the pan on 2 stacked baking sheets or an insulated baking sheet.

Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt in a small bowl.

Put the sugar in a large bowl, add the lemon or tangerine zest, and rub together with your fingers until the sugar is moist and aromatic.

Add the eggs, one by one, whisking each vigorously before adding the next.

Whisk in the juice and vanilla, and then whisk in the heavy cream until smooth.

 Add the flour mixture in 3 additions, using the whisk to gently stir the dry ingredients into the batter.

When the flour is incorporated, add the butter in 2 additions, again stirring gently with the whisk. You should have a thick, smooth, shiny batter.

Switch to a flexible spatula and stir in the poppy seeds.

Scrape the batter into the pan. Bake until the cake has risen and cracked along the center and, most important, a tester inserted deep into the cake comes out clean, 60 to 70 minutes.

Take a look at it after about 45 minutes and tent it loosely with foil if it’s getting too dark too fast. 

Transfer the pan to a rack, cool for 5 minutes, and then run a table knife between the cake and the pan.

Cool to room temperature. Make the glaze, if you like:

Stir together the confectioners’ sugar and 1 tablespoon lemon juice until smooth. If needed, add more juice, a drop at a time, until you have an icing that falls slowly from the tip of a spoon.

Spread it over the cooled cake to coat evenly, sprinkle with poppy seeds and let stand until set. Wrapped well, the cake will keep at room temperature for about 4 days; unglazed, it can be frozen for up to 1 month.

Poppy Seed Teacake

The Fairmont Temple Sisterhood Cookbook, Cleveland, Ohio, 1957. Handed down from my mother, cooking stains and all, this cookbook is a treasure trove of delicious recipes. I will be sharing them with you as I try them.

Ingredients:

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 cup cold water

1/2 cup baking cocoa

Mix the above and set aside.

2/3 cup shortening, softened ( I used butter.)

1 3/4 cups sugar ( If you plan on frosting the cake, I suggest using 1 1/4 cups sugar. Otherwise, it will be too sweet.)

2 eggs

3/4 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 1/2 cups cake flour sifted 3 times with 1/2 teaspoon salt (I used all purpose flour.)

Directions:

Cream together shortening and sugar. Add eggs. Combine buttermilk and vanilla and add. Add sifted flour with salt. Mix 2 minutes on medium speed. Add cocoa mixture and blend well. Bake in 2 greased and floured 9 inch pans at 350* for 25 to 30 minutes. Insert a toothpick to check if done. It should come out clean.

When cool, frost.

Chocolate Butter Cream Frosting

1/3 cup soft butter

1/2 cup cocoa

2 1/2 cups sifted confectioners sugar

*3 or more Tablespoons of heavy cream

1 1/2 teaspoons of vanilla

Beat all ingredients together until smooth.

Note: Use as much cream as you need to make a spreading consistency.

This recipe is from The Fairmont Temple Sisterhood Cookbook, Cleveland, Ohio, 1957. It’s sensational and well worth the effort!

Ingredients:

4-5 pound chicken cut in pieces

1 stalk celery

1 onion, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

2 Tablespoons butter

2 Tablespoons flour

2 egg yolks

1/2 cup cream

1/2 pound mushrooms, sauteed

2 Tablespoons chopped parsley

1 Tablespoon lemon juice

Salt and Pepper to taste

Preparation:

Cover chicken with boiling water and add celery. Simmer about *2 hours until tender. Twenty minutes before done, add onions and salt. Remove chicken, onions, and celery from broth. Continue to boil broth until have 2 cups, strain. Cut chicken from bones and leave in large pieces.

Slightly beat yolks and cream, reserving 2 Tablespoons of this mixture for later use. Melt butter, blend in flour and add broth and yolk/cream mixture. Stir constantly and cook for 2 minutes. Season. Add mushrooms, onion and chicken (If you prefer, add frozen peas and carrots instead of mushrooms.) Put in casserole and cover with the following crust.

*Note: Original recipe called for hen which would take longer to cook. Two hours might be too long.

Crust:

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 Tablespoons butter

6 Tablespoons milk

Sift dry ingredients together. Cut in butter and gradually add milk, mixing to a soft dough. roll 1/4 inch thick. After covering casserole with crust, slit dough before baking. Brush lightly with reserved yolk/cream mixture. Bake at 450* for 15 minutes, reduce to 350* and bake for 15 minutes longer.

A small, store front restaurant on Nevins Street in Brooklyn, specializing in Onigiri and Miso soup.

This is more of a takeout place, but it does have some limited seating – for a few people inside and outside! The food, however, is wonderful.

They specialize in “Onigiri”, a rice ball made with organic brown rice in a variety of flavors, Bento Boxes for a “nutritious and well balanced meal,” soups, seaweed, fermented and pickled vegetables, and a variety of teas.

Another restaurant Adam and I tried was Pacificana, a pioneer for dim sum and upscale Cantonese in Sunset Park. We arrived at I:00 pm on a Sunday, and had no trouble being seated. Earlier could be a problem. The dim sum came fast and furious, and our favorites were the miniature pork buns and congee, a rice soup flavored with chicken. The next time we go, I would like to order from their extensive menu. Parking is extremely difficult in Sunset Park, but fortunately, there is a parking garage next to the restaurant ($5.50/ hour). If you have time, do walk around this vibrant and exciting neighborhood.