Author Archives: robertaklapper

The Daily Meal: 101 Best Pizza’s in America for 2020. “These pizzas all have one thing in common: they’re delicious!”

Lunch, yesterday (you guessed it), was pizza. We tried to return to Leo, on Havemeyer Street in Williamsburg, for their Margherita Pizza and Caesar Salad (lettuce, anchovies, strips of parmesan, bread cubes) but couldn’t find a parking space, so we did the next best thing. We found one a few blocks away right in front of L’industrie Pizzeria, another favorite, on South 2nd Street. According to the above article, the slices are “so light it’s almost as if you inhale them.” I couldn’t agree more. I had my favorite, Margherita, while Adam enjoyed Burrata, which contrasts warm tomato sauce with cool, creamy cheese over a paper-thin crust.

Another place the list recommends is the original Roberta’s, in Bushwick, but, from their website, I noticed that they also have two locations in LA. We’ve tried many of their menu items and love their homemade bread and butter, Marinated Cucumbers, Little Gem Salad (similar to Caesar), and a variety of their pizzas.

If you have time, peruse the list. I’m quite sure you’ll find excellent pizza somewhere near you. There are eight more choices in Brooklyn (DiFara, Cuts and Slices, Emmy Squared, Juliana’s, L&B Spumoni Gardens, ZuriLee, Pauli Gee’s, and Lucali’s), Louie and Ernie’s Pizza in the Bronx, Last Dragon Pizza in Queens, and seven in NYC (Rubirosa, Scarrs, Joe’s Pizza, Lombardi’s, Prince Street Pizza, John’s of Bleecker Street, and Patsy’s Pizzeria).

In Orange NJ, it’s Star Tavern, and in Philly, Pizza Shackamaxo, Nomad Pizza, and Pizzaria Beddia. For family in LA, there’s also Pizzeria Mozza in LA and Newport Beach, and for a dear friend in Boston, Santarpio’s, since 1903, and Galleria Umberto in the North End. Number #1 on their list is Frank Pepe Pizzeria in Fairfield, CT. So, enjoy. I will, too!

By Molly O’Neill (NYT)

I’m always looking for a lemon poundcake recipe and was happy to find this one. It combines lemon and sour cream to produce a cake that is sweet and tender with a subtle lemon flavor and brushed with a lemon juice-confectioners’ sugar glaze.

INGREDIENTS

• ½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus additional for greasing pan
• 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for pan
• 1 ¼ cups sugar
• 4 teaspoons grated lemon zest
• 3 eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt
• ¾ cup sour cream
• ½ cup confectioners’ sugar
• ½ cup fresh lemon juice (2 large lemons)

Preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour a *9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan. Using an electric mixer, cream together the butter and sugar until light. Add the lemon zest, then the eggs, one at a time, mixing until light and fluffy. Mix in the vanilla.
2. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Add the dry ingredients alternately with the sour cream, mixing just to combine. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the cake’s center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Place on a rack.
3. Put the confectioners’ sugar in a bowl and gradually whisk in the lemon juice. Brush some of the mixture over the top of the cake. Let stand for 10 minutes. Turn the cake out of the pan and brush the cake top, sides and bottom well with the lemon mixture. Repeat after 10 minutes. Slice and serve.

Note: * If you have too much batter for the pan, make a cupcake using a Reynolds Foil Baking Cup (both layers).

Adam and my daughters feel that I should include this recipe in the blog. After years of trial and error, I think I’ve finally got it right. (It hinges on the tastes I remember from my childhood.) I can give you the basics, but the finishing touches are up to you.

I prefer to use Italian frying peppers. They are typically green but will turn red if allowed to ripen

Ingredients for the sauce:

6 good sized peppers, tops cut off (saved and coarsely chopped) and seeded

1 large onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 large, or 2 medium carrots, sliced into rounds

2 stalks celery, cut in half lengthwise and then thinly sliced

2-3 very ripe, large tomatoes (cut into pieces)

1-2 handfuls of raisins

3 Tablespoons of olive oil (less if you prefer)

salt, pepper

Ingredients for the filling:

1 pound of 80% ground chuck

3 heaping tablespoons of minced onion

1 clove of garlic, minced

3 full tablespoons of rice (rinsed)

3 tablespoons of water

1 beaten egg

1 teaspoon of salt, some pepper

*Combine all of the above.

To make the sauce: In a large frying pan, over medium heat, add the oil. When it is hot, sauté the onion and garlic until the onion is translucent. Then add the rest of the vegetables, lower the heat, cover, and cook until the vegetables are somewhat softened. Add the tomatoes and one handful of raisins and cook a few minutes more. Taste for salt, pepper, tartness and sweetness. If not sweet enough, add more raisins. If not tart enough, add more tomatoes.

*Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Stuff the peppers with the filling. Line them up in a large baking dish and pour the sauce over all. (If have left over filling, make meatballs and add to the dish.) If sauce doesn’t appear to have enough liquid, add up to ¼ cup of water. Bake uncovered for about 30-45 minutes. Then cover loosely with aluminum foil. Peppers are ready when they give off a delicious smell and are browned in spots. Serve with rice.

Kheer is usually made with whole milk. Note that the flavor of the milk you use will affect the overall taste and consistency. Cane sugar is traditionally used, but you can use maple syrup or coconut sugar instead. 

Ingredients

4 cups milk (or almond milk for dairy-free, or 2 cups coconut milk, 2 cups milk)

1/2 cup Basmati rice 

3 tablespoons organic cane sugar or coconut sugar

2 tablespoons raisins (optional)

½ teaspoon cardamom powder

5 strands of saffron (optional) 

½ teaspoon rose water (optional)

Optional Toppings

•  tablespoons slivered almonds
•  tablespoons pistachios

Instructions

Soak the rice in water for 30 minutes or overnight. Rinse well in water until it runs clear.

In a medium saucepan, add milk and sugar. Turn the heat to medium-high and bring the milk mixture to a gentle boil.

Immediately reduce the heat to medium-low and add Basmati rice. Stir gently.

Simmer until the milk starts to thicken and the rice is tender. It will take about 20-30 minutes for the rice to milk mixture to reduce to about half its original amount. Stir frequently.

Stir in the raisins, cardamom, saffron and rose water, and cook for a few more minutes.

Turn off the heat and let the Indian rice pudding cool down. Add additional toppings, if desired, and serve or store for later.

Notes

To save the rice pudding for later, cool it down completely before storing it in an air-tight glass container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Serve either warm or cold. To reheat the rice pudding, warm it in a small saucepan on medium-low heat, stirring frequently.

Today, I’m taking you to Cinnamon, a restaurant bringing high quality Indian and Sri Lankan cuisine, in the village of Rhinebeck, NY. My daughters have a home upstate, and this is one of our favorite dinner spots. Rhinebeck Village, established in 1683, is worth a visit, in itself, for its historic homes and architecture, hiking and biking trails, and its surrounding natural beauty. And at night, all over the village, white mini lights wrapped around the trunks and limbs of trees create a most magical effect.

We started our meal, this evening, with vegetable samosas, Indian pastry stuffed with vegetables and served with a dipping sauce. However, on a previous occasion, we enjoyed Palak Chaat, crisp fried spinach leaves topped with crisp noodles, chopped onions and fresh tomatoes drizzled with cilantro and mint chutney, tamarind sauce, and yogurt.

For four of us, we ordered Chicken Tikka Masala, tandoori grilled boneless chicken in a tomato cream sauce with mild spices, Lamb Shank Rogan, lamb shank slow-cooked in a sauce of saffron, garam masala and a blend of chilies, Saag Paneer, chopped spinach and chickpeas simmered in a creamy sauce of ginger, turmeric, coriander, cumin with cubed homemade cheese, all accompanied by bowls of basmati rice, and several orders of hot Garlic Naan, the classic Punjab bread topped with melted butter, minced garlic and fresh cilantro. Desert all around was Rice Kheer, rice pudding with rose water, cardamom, and saffron.

For vegetarians, there is a plethora of choices, and you can also ask for the degree of spiciness that you can tolerate. Mine is always mild. So, if you decide to visit Rhinebeck Village, definitely enjoy a wonderful meal at Cinnamon.

Naan

03/2022: Adam and I returned for a lunch recently, and the food was as we remembered it – excellent! This time, we enjoyed the LAMB MASALAWALA (tandoori grilled, grass-fed rack of lamb in a 24-hour marinade of ground cashews and yogurt with fresh mint, ginger, garlic served with grilled vegetables). Along with vegetables samosas and hot Garlic Naan, the SAAG PANEER  (chopped spinach simmered in a creamy sauce of ginger, turmeric, coriander, cumin with cubed homemade cheese)was so good we took an order home!

This might seem like a complicated recipe but by doing it in steps, it’s not.  Believe it or not, the pasta you use is important. I buy fresh pasta sheets from Zabar’s in NYC (having been disappointed by others). From nymag.com: Use ¾ to 1 pound of fresh pasta sheets (about 7×4 inches), or dried lasagna noodles blanched for 6 minutes and refreshed (put in ice water).

 

Step 1: Making the Ragu

• 5 cloves garlic 
• 2 medium onions 
• 4 ribs celery 
• 2 carrots 
• 1/4 cup olive oil 
• 1 lb ground veal (or ground beef))
• 1 lb ground pork 
• 4 oz pancetta 
• 6 oz tomato paste 
• 1 cup dry white wine 
• 1 cup whole milk 
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves 

 

Method 

To begin the ragu, first émincé the garlic. Finely chop the onions, celery and carrots.

Next, preheat a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Once hot, add the oil and vegetables (also known as mirepoix) and let cook until translucent, but not browned, about 5 minutes or so.

Gather the veal and pork. Very finely chop the pancetta or cut it into quarters and then pulse it in a food processor until ground. Once the vegetables are translucent, add all of the meat and increase the heat to high. Let the meat brown, stirring frequently, for about 15 minutes.

While the meat cooks, gather white wine, milk, tomato paste and thyme. Once the meat has browned nicely, add the tomato paste and stir to combine. Then add the white wine, milk and fresh thyme. Stir again, scraping the bottom if needed. Let everything come just to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and let simmer for 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

As the ragu cooks, remember to stir it occasionally, to prevent it from sticking or scorching. In the meantime, you can prepare the besciamella.

Step 2: Making the Besciamella

• 5 tbsp unsalted butter 
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 
• 3 cups whole milk 
• 1 to 2 tsp sea salt 
• 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg 

 

Method 

To make the besciamella, heat a saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. Once melted, add the flour to create a roux and stir until smooth. Cook for about 6 to 7 minutes, stirring frequently, until it turns a light-golden brown.

Meanwhile, in a separate pot, heat the milk to just under a boil. Once the mixture has browned and the milk has heated, add the milk to the roux, about one cup at a time. Whisk constantly, until very smooth, bringing it back to a boil each time. Once all of the milk has been incorporated and the mixture has come back up to a gentle boil, turn the heat to low and let cook for about 10 minutes. Stir occasionally. The sauce should nicely coat the back of a spoon. Once done, remove from the heat and season with the salt and freshly-grated nutmeg. Transfer to a bowl and place plastic wrap directly onto the surface, to prevent a skin from forming. Leave a bit of space around the edges for the steam to escape while it cools.

Step 3:

Assembling the Lasagne

• 8 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano 

 

Method 

Before assembling the lasagne, preheat your oven to 375º degrees Fahrenheit.

Grate the Parmigiano-Reggiano into a bowl and set aside. Then gather the besciamella and give it a good stir to make sure it is nice and smooth. Have the ragu and your *lasagne pan ready.

To begin assembling, spread a layer of ragu over the bottom of the pan and top with a bit of the cheese. Then add a layer of pasta. It is okay if the noodles overlap slightly. Add a thin layer of besciamella, spreading it out slightly. Add another layer of ragu. Because the pasta is so delicate and thin, you can create many layers; so, don’t worry about every spot being covered with filling. Sprinkle with the cheese and add another layer of pasta. Continue and repeat the same process, layering the noodles, besciamella, ragu and then the cheese. The last layer should be a layer of noodles topped with a generous coating of besciamella. Spread the besciamella out to cover the edges so the noodles don’t dry out during baking.

Sprinkle with a bit more cheese and bake for approximately 45 minutes. When done, the edges and top should be slightly browned and the sauces should be bubbling. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving and enjoy one of the best lasagne’s you’ll ever have.

*Note: This is best made in an extra deep pan. I use my dutch oven to create multiple layers by trimming the lasagna sheets to fit.

I have been shopping on Arthur Avenue for more than twenty years. I discovered it while teaching not far from there and find it just as wonderful today as I did then. Over the years I have frequented many of the shops and restaurants but, after trial and error, now shop and dine at a select few. My most favorite destination is Teitel Brother’s Imports. It is a third generation family business run by a Jewish family- not from Italy, but from Austria. (That explains the Star of David mosaic at the entrance.) It opened in 1915 and does not sell kosher goods but rather all kinds of Italian items from salami and balsamic vinegar to olive oil. (Their Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, Marca Francesconi, is the best I have ever tasted.) I stock up on Mutti tomato products, Lavazza coffee, Callipo tuna, and De Cecco pastas, to name a few. Their prices are excellent, always less, and their imported meats and cheeses, fresh mozzarella, and fresh sweet and hot sausage are delicious and of the highest quality.

If you wish for an authentic brick oven pizza,*Trattoria Zero Otto Nove is the place to go. I never miss a stop at Addeo and Sons Bakery, a family run business for eight decades. It doesn’t offer much more than freshly baked bread, and that’s all they need. And lastly, just walk into the Arthur Avenue Retail Market, which was established by Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia in the 1930’s to get push-cart vendors off the streets. You won’t know where to look first!

Tony & Tina’s Pizza: Albanian Bureks on Arthur Avenue

On another visit to Arthur Avenue, my daughters and I tried Tony and Tina’s bureks. I am not a connoisseur of these flaky dough pastries, but these were wonderful. We especially enjoyed the spinach ones which were fragrant with onion. I suggest you eat them there, however, you can reheat them at home in a very hot oven.

Luna Cafe

03/17: While on Arthur avenue for shopping, I decided to try this cafe. I had been there before when it was an Italian Pastry Shop, and being hungry, and noticing they now served lunch, entered. I was pleasantly surprised that this is now an Albanian eatery that not only serves Abanian food and Albanian desserts, but Italian food as well.

Perusing the menu, I choose goulash. It arrived on a bed of mashed potatoes, along with a salad of pickled cabbage and onions, and was delicious! When I got home, I spent an hour on Google looking for Albanian goulash recipes. I’ll submit the recipe if I’m successful! Wish me luck!

*Trattoria Zero Otto Nove: Further along on this blog is a review of this wonderful restaurant. It’s the place to visit if you want delicious pizza and Italian food.

Recipe (from a dear friend of my daughters)

1 pound of sweet mini peppers

2 cups distilled vinegar

½ cup sugar

3 Tablespoons water

2 or more sliced garlic cloves

pinch of salt

Stem and seed the peppers. Slice them and pack into jars. Bring vinegar, sugar, water, and salt to a raging boil. Pour over peppers and seal jars (cover). Let cool at room temp overnight. Store in refrigerator.

Recipe from Alice Waters, In the Green Kitchen

Add a crusty bread, a favorite cheese, and a green salad for a complete meal.

Ingredients:

3-4 Tablespoons of olive oil

2 carrots peeled and diced

½ onion peeled and diced

2 celery stalks diced

Kosher salt to taste

3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 teaspoon chopped rosemary (optional)

1 cup French green lentils (Any kind of lentil will do.)

*7-8 cups water or chicken stock

Pour the oil into a heavy-bottomed soup pot and heat over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and sauté until tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Season with a little salt and pepper and add the garlic and rosemary (optional). Add the lentils and stir while adding the water or stock to the pot. Bring to a boil, skimming any foam off the surface. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the lentils are soft and fully cooked, 25 to 45 minutes.

*If using chicken stock, I would use half stock/half water. You don’t want the chicken flavor to overtake the soup. However, instead of stock, for flavor I add a piece of salt pork (about 6 ounces) or about 4 ounces of pancetta to the pot after the vegetables are sauteed. Let flavors meld for a minute or two before continuing for the full 45 minutes of cook time.

If using salt pork or pancetta, taste and add salt at the end of cooking. Remove the pork or pancetta before serving.

Leftovers: If the soup is too thick, add a little water to thin it out. Then adjust seasonings.

Notes: For a slightly different version, sizzle cumin seeds in olive oil and stir into the soup before serving.

Brunch today was at Kokomo, a restaurant which brings Caribbean Food to the Brooklyn waterfront and reviewed 10/06/2020, again by Pete Wells. They have a beautifully constructed outdoor platform and also tables set up under large awnings. It was the perfect setting for such a pleasant day, and their brilliant colors, music and general ambience transported me to the West Indies.

 Wells reviewed their dinner menu, but the brunch menu has many of the same items. He recommended their flatbreads, jerk chicken, and Escovitch Snapper (snapper marinated in vinegar, spices and veggies) and mentioned that “the substantial line of vegan main courses is conceived with flavor in mind.”

As I perused the menu, I was attracted to the Pikliz Fish Sandwich with pickled cabbage slaw, fried fish fillet, garlic mayo, and house fries, but to no avail. They didn’t have it today, so I chose their egg frittata. Adam chose their Caribbean spiced lamb, and both dishes were good, as well as the service. We were intrigued with their rum raisin bread pudding for dessert served with vanilla ice cream and topped with coconut whipped cream. It arrived with an edible orchid (crunchy), and the pudding was yummy!  So, yes to a repeat. I’m looking forward to trying some of their other dishes.