Author Archives: robertaklapper

By Melissa Clark

Spaghetti with tuna is one of those adaptable pantry dishes that you can dress up with whatever you have on hand. Just cook alliums (garlic, onion, scallions or shallot) in plenty of olive oil, add pasta water and al dente pasta to the pan, and finish with a can of tuna flaked on top. This version adds zucchini, fresh herbs and any kind of chili paste you like (gochujang, harissa, aji amarillo, sambal oelek or Sriracha) for brightness and heat. Just note that some chili pastes are more fiery than others, so if you’re unsure how much to add, gradually dab it in it, tasting as you go. Then make this in summer when zucchinis are abundant, or substitute other vegetables (eggplant, peppers, greens) as they come into season. Simple, thrifty and very satisfying, it’s an afterwork dish to make on repeat.

Yield: 2 to 3 servings

• ½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt, more as needed
• 8 ounces long, thin pasta, such as bucatini, spaghetti or linguine
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling
• 4 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated (You can use the whole bunch.)
• 1 pound zucchini, trimmed, halved lengthwise and sliced into ½-inch-thick half-moons
• 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 3 tablespoons drained capers
• ½ to 3 teaspoons chili paste, more to taste
• 1 cup roughly chopped fresh herbs, such as cilantro and mint
• 1 (5- or 6-ounce) can tuna, drained (I used tuna in olive oil and did not drain it.)
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste

PREPARATION

• Step 1: In a well-salted pot of boiling water, cook pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain, saving ½ cup pasta water.
• Step 2: Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the oil over medium. Add scallion whites and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add zucchini and ½ teaspoon salt, and cook until golden brown and tender, 7 to 12 minutes. Add garlic, capers and chili paste, and cook, 1 to 2 minutes, or until the garlic is fragrant. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
• Step 3: Add ½ cup pasta water, let it reduce until there is just a little left in the pan, 3 to 4 minutes, then add pasta and ½ cup herbs, and toss well to coat. Stir in tuna and lemon juice, tossing well. Taste and add more chili paste, lemon juice or salt as needed.
• Step 4: Serve, topped with remaining ½ cup herbs, scallion greens, and a drizzle of olive oil.

By Lidey Heuck

This simple chicken salad makes great use of leftover chicken, though you can certainly use a rotisserie chicken or roast or boil chicken breasts for this recipe. The recipe calls for classic crunchy mix-ins such as grapes, celery and pecans, but feel free to make it your own: Use a diced tart apple in place of the grapes, or toss in a handful of dried cranberries.

Note: I made this with freshly roasted chicken breasts, pecans, celery, red onions and grapes. If it’s going to stay over a day or two for lunches, I would suggest using the dried cranberries instead of the grapes.

To roast skin on, bone in, split chicken breasts: rinse and dry chicken. Place in a baking dish, rub with some olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast uncovered at 300* for about an hour until juices run clear. Cool before dicing.

INGREDIENTS

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

• ½ cup mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
• ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
• Salt and pepper
• 3 cups diced cooked chicken breast
• ½ cup finely chopped celery (about 1 large stalk)
• ½ cup seedless grapes, quartered
• ½ cup toasted pecans, chopped (see Tip)
• ¼ cup minced red onion (about ¼ small onion)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (optional)
• Toasted bread, lettuce cups or crackers, for serving
• PREPARATION
• Step 1: In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise, vinegar, mustard, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper; whisk until smooth. Add the chicken, celery, grapes, pecans, onion and parsley and mix well. Season with more salt and pepper to taste. (May not need salt and pepper. Taste.)
• Step 2: Serve on toasted bread or lettuce cups, or with crackers. Chicken salad will keep for up to 5 days in the refrigerator.

TIP

• Toast pecans on a baking sheet at 350 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes. (This might be too hot and too long.)

The first, a Russian restaurant, Hot Potato House, is in Brighton Beach, Brooklyn. According to the New York Times, “Brighton Beach is the grumpy neighbor of Coney Island and home to a population of Soviet exiles.” What a glorious neighborhood! Walking the streets, one feels as if they have been transported to a different country.

I have tried quite a few restaurants in the area, but this one, recommended by a Russian friend, stands out. It’s not fancy on the outside, but inside it’s warm and inviting and the food is good. As you can imagine, it has everything on the menu that can be done with potatoes – the potato pancakes are amazing, but the menu itself is extensive and features a wide variety of appetizers, smoked fish, classic soups, fowl, meats, fresh fish, salads and vegetables. And when you’re finished, take a walk along Brighton Beach Avenue where many of the storefronts are written in Russian, or just one block over, continue your stroll on their historic boardwalk.

 From the New York Times, “find the Georgian bakery on Neptune Avenue and devour the freshly baked cheesy khachapuri.” (Tone-Cafe Georgian Bread, 265 Neptune Ave, Brooklyn.)

The next, in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, is Yemen Cafe & Restaurant, which serves traditional Yemeni food. The setting is “casual” – the decor hasn’t changed since it opened in the late 80’s, but don’t let that fool you. The food is plentiful and delicious, and the meal starts off with a platter of freshly made pita bread and a warming bowl of broth.

And lastly, in New York City, on the upper west side, is Elea, “blending true Greek Cuisine with a modern-day…Mediterranean cuisine.” The food is pricy, however, portions are ample, and everything we ate was excellent. (Horiatiki Salad – vine ripe tomatoes, red onion, peppers, olives and Arahova feta, a Tasting of (3) Greek spreads with grilled pita, Spanakopita, and Shrimp Orzotto.) There are brunch entrees as well as a selection of eggs, meats and fish.

Enjoy!

By Ali Slagle

INGREDIENTS

Yield:4 servings

• 1 pound cucumbers (about 6 Persian or mini seedless, or 1 English)
• Salt
• 3 tablespoons vinegar (red or white wine, rice or Sherry)
• 1½ teaspoons honey or granulated sugar
• ½ small red onion, thinly sliced and rinsed under cold water
• 2 tablespoons chopped dill
• Black pepper

PREPARATION

1. Peel the cucumbers in alternating strips and trim ends (so that the cucumbers soak up the vinegary dressing but also hold their shape). If desired, halve lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Thinly slice, then transfer to a colander set in the sink. Toss with 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt or ½ teaspoon fine sea salt and set aside to drain at least 5 minutes or up to 30.
2. In a medium bowl, stir together the vinegar and honey until the honey is dissolved. Shake the cucumbers in the colander to get rid of any moisture, pour onto paper towels and pat dry, then transfer the cucumbers, red onion and dill to the bowl. Stir to combine, then season to taste with salt and pepper.

….another wonderful meat sauce. I did not use the pork neck bones or the tomato paste and added 2 stalks of diced celery and 2 shredded carrots. Also, I only used about 1/4 cup of white wine. This is just my take on the recipe. You needn’t follow it.

Ingredients

• TWO 35-OUNCE CANS ITALIAN PLUM TOMATOES (PREFERABLY SAN MARZANO, or 2 cans of Mutti crushed tomatoes)
• ¼ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
• 2 MEDIUM YELLOW ONIONS, DICED (ABOUT 2 CUPS)
• 6 TO 8 CLOVES GARLIC, PEELED AND CHOPPED FINE
• 5 OR 6 MEATY PORK NECK BONES (ABOUT 3/4 POUND)
• 1 POUND GROUND BEEF
• 1 POUND GROUND PORK
• SALT
• 3/4 CUP DRY WHITE WINE
• 1/3 CUP TOMATO PASTE
• 4 BAY LEAVES
• 1 ½ TEASPOONS DRIED OREGANO, PREFERABLY THE SICILIAN OR GREEK TYPE DRIED ON THE BRANCH, CRUMBLED
• 3 TO 4 CUPS HOT WATER (Because I didn’t use tomato paste, I only used one empty tomato can of water.)

Directions

Pass the tomatoes and their liquid through a food mill fitted with the fine blade. Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a heavy 4 to 5-quart pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 8 minutes. Make a little room in the center of the pot, dump in the garlic and cook, stirring, until the garlic is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the pork bones and cook, turning, until lightly browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and pork and season lightly with salt. Cook, stirring to break up the meat, until the meat changes color and the water it gives off is boiled away, about 10 minutes. Continue cooking until the meat is browned about 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves and oregano then pour in the wine. Bring to a boil and cook, scraping up the brown bits that cling to the pot, until the wine is almost completely evaporated. Pour in the tomatoes, then stir in the tomato paste until is dissolved. Season lightly with salt. Bring to a boil, adjust the heat to a lively simmer and cook, uncovered, stirring often, until the sauce takes on a deep, brick-red color, 2 to 3 hours. Add the hot water, about ½ cup at a time, as necessary to maintain the level of liquid for the length of time the sauce cooks.
Skim off any fat floating on top and adjust the seasoning as necessary. The sauce can be prepared entirely in advance and refrigerated for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.

Pan Fried Chicken Cutlets: Another recipe from my daughter’s friend, Dina.

Ingredients:

One pound of skinless and boneless chicken breasts

juice and zest from one lemon

2 Tablespoons mustard

olive oil, salt

Marinate chicken in mustard, lemon juice and zest, a good pour of olive oil, and salt (to taste) for 30 minutes. Cover the chicken well.

Heat some olive oil in a frying pan, and when it is hot, fry the cutlets. Flip them when they are nice and brown. Serve hot.

Oklahoma-Style Onion Burgers

J. KENJI LÓPEZ

…a burger that is nearly as much onion as it is meat.

Ingredients

• 1/4 teaspoon canola oil (or any oil)
• 5 ounces freshly ground beef, divided into two 2 1/2-ounce balls
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium onion, thinly sliced (about 1 cup sliced onions)
• 2 slices American cheese
• 2 soft hamburger buns
• Mustard, pickles, and other condiments, if desired
• WHY IT WORKS:
• Using up to half an onion per burger and slicing onions orbitally maximizes onion flavor. 
• Smashing burgers into the pan maximizes browning. 
• Steaming buns on top of the burgers infuses them with beef and onion aromas

Procedure:

• Spread canola oil inside a large cast iron skillet with a paper towel. Heat over high heat until lightly smoking. Add balls of beef and press down with the back side of a spatula until completely flattened. Season generously with salt and pepper.
• Working quickly, spread onions evenly over cooking burgers and press down to embed onions into meat. Let cook with no further pressing until burgers are well browned, about 2 minutes
• Carefully flip burgers with a stiff spatula, making sure to pick up all browned meat from skillet. Let cook until onions start to soften, about 1 minute. Add cheese and top with top bun. Place bottom bun upside-down over top bun to allow it to steam in the onion vapors.

Note: We used 1/4 pound of 80% ground beef per patty and vidalia onions.

By Farideh Sadeghin

This easy, beloved one-pan meal is true Southern comfort food. Though smothered chicken often includes bacon, celery or bell pepper, this recipe strips it to its essence, relying more upon onion and scallions. The classic cooking technique of smothering has its roots in West African, French and Creole culinary traditions and, at its core, is a simple stovetop braise. Serve this dish with steamed rice or mashed potatoes, plus a side of collard greens or green beans.

INGREDIENTS

Yield: 4 servings

• ¾ cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon ground cayenne (optional)
• Salt and pepper
• 1½ to 2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and legs (about 2 of each)
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 cups chicken stock
• Steamed rice or mashed potatoes, to serve
• Step 1: Mix the flour, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, cayenne and 2 teaspoons salt together in a shallow bowl. Reserve ¼ cup of the seasoned flour, then coat the chicken in the remaining flour mixture.
• Step 2: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the seasoned chicken and cook, turning as needed, until browned all over, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside.
• Step 3: Melt the butter in the skillet, then add the onion and ¾ of the scallions. Season with salt, then cook until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook 2 minutes more, then stir in the reserved ¼ cup of seasoned flour and stir for 2 minutes. Stir in the chicken stock until smooth, then season with salt and pepper.
• Step 4: Nestle the reserved chicken into the gravy and cover. Reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes.
• Step 5: Sprinkle with the remaining scallions and serve with steamed rice or mashed potatoes.

Note: Can use whole chicken cut into 8 pieces.

 …a fluffy lemon olive oil cake with help from her pals Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the restaurateurs behind some of Jennifer’s favorite Los Angeles eateries, such as Son of a Gun. Texture is softer than you would expect.

Ingredients 

• 1 1/2 cups high-quality olive oil, plus more for the pan
• 3 large eggs
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 1 1/4 cups whole milk
• 1 tablespoon Amaro del Capo. (I wasn’t able to find this in a liquor store. Recipe suggested to use extra vanilla instead. I used Grand Marnier.)
• 1 teaspoon orange zest
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2/3 cup fresh lemon juice
• zest of 2 large lemons
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 cup Sugar in the Raw (for topping)
• powdered sugar for dusting

Directions 

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Prepare a 9-inch springform pan with olive oil and a lining of parchment paper. 
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, olive oil, and sugar until smooth. Then whisk in milk, Amaro, orange zest, lemon juice, lemon zest, and vanilla.
3. In a separate large bowl, mix all the dry ingredients: flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and slowly incorporate the wet ingredients. Whisk until smooth—a few lumps are okay!
4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle the Sugar in the Raw over the top and bake for about 50 minutes to 1 hour.
5. Let the cake cool completely before dusting with powdered sugar and topping with a scrape of lemon zest.

For this cake to reach its full potential, it’s essential to use a good olive oil, meaning an extra-virgin variety with a pure, quality taste.

Because of the cake’s olive oil base, the batter will be more liquidy than you might be used to. Once it’s transferred into a springform pan, the batter will be sprinkled with an even layer of coarse sugar. As it bakes, this will give the crust a crisp, golden, and crackly finish.

Note: I found that the cake turned out better in a smaller spring form pan with the excess making about six well baked muffins. The larger cake didn’t bake as well. No need to line muffin tins with parchment. Use foil baking cups.

The Silver Palette Cookbook

Makes about 30 cookies

Ingredients: 

1 cup thick rolled oats
12 tablespoons (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine, at room temperature
1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar; 1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup shredded unsweetened coconut
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 cup of raisins, chopped dates or other dried fruit

Directions: 

Preheat oven to 325° F. Spread thick oatmeal in a thin layer on a baking sheet and toast until lightly colored, 15 minutes or less. Set aside to cool. Cream butter and both sugars together in a medium bowl until light and fluffy. Stir in eggs, vanilla, coconut and lemon zest. Sift flour, salt, baking powder, and cinnamon over butter mixture and blend well. Blend in oatmeal, raisins, or dates. Lightly grease 2 baking sheets or line with parchment. Drop dough by slightly rounded tablespoons onto pans, leaving about 3 inches between cookies. Bake in middle of oven until edges are lightly browned, 16 to 18 minutes. Remove from oven and let cookies cool on pan for 5 minutes before transferring to racks to cool completely.

The Silver Palette Cookbook

12 Tablespoons unsalted butter (1 and 1/2 sticks)

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar (recipe calls for 1 cup of brown sugar but too sweet)

1 egg

2 Tablespoons water

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cup unbleached all purpose flour

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

3 cups quick cooking oats

1 cup raisins

Preheat oven to 350.* Grease 2 cookie sheets. Cream butter and sugars until fluffy. Add egg and beat thoroughly. Mix in water and vanilla.

Sift flour, cinnamon, salt and baking soda; add to the egg mixture and mix well. Add oats and raisins, and mix.

Form cookies on prepared cookie sheets. (Use a quarter cup measuring cup. Portion cookie dough into 1/4 cup balls, roll in between palms to make round then flatten making sure to keep the circular shape.

Bake for 15 to 17 minutes until edges are done but centers are still soft. remove to a rack and cool.

Note: Can add some chocolate chips, if desired.