Author Archives: robertaklapper

The first, a Russian restaurant, Hot Potato House, is in Brighton Beach, Brooklyn. According to the New York Times, “Brighton Beach is the grumpy neighbor of Coney Island and home to a population of Soviet exiles.” What a glorious neighborhood! Walking the streets, one feels as if they have been transported to a different country.

I have tried quite a few restaurants in the area, but this one, recommended by a Russian friend, stands out. It’s not fancy on the outside, but inside it’s warm and inviting and the food is good. As you can imagine, it has everything on the menu that can be done with potatoes – the potato pancakes are amazing, but the menu itself is extensive and features a wide variety of appetizers, smoked fish, classic soups, fowl, meats, fresh fish, salads and vegetables. And when you’re finished, take a walk along Brighton Beach Avenue where many of the storefronts are written in Russian, or just one block over, continue your stroll on their historic boardwalk.

 From the New York Times, “find the Georgian bakery on Neptune Avenue and devour the freshly baked cheesy khachapuri.” (Tone-Cafe Georgian Bread, 265 Neptune Ave, Brooklyn.)

The next, in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, is Yemen Cafe & Restaurant, which serves traditional Yemeni food. The setting is “casual” – the decor hasn’t changed since it opened in the late 80’s, but don’t let that fool you. The food is plentiful and delicious, and the meal starts off with a platter of freshly made pita bread and a warming bowl of broth.

And lastly, in New York City, on the upper west side, is Elea, “blending true Greek Cuisine with a modern-day…Mediterranean cuisine.” The food is pricy, however, portions are ample, and everything we ate was excellent. (Horiatiki Salad – vine ripe tomatoes, red onion, peppers, olives and Arahova feta, a Tasting of (3) Greek spreads with grilled pita, Spanakopita, and Shrimp Orzotto.) There are brunch entrees as well as a selection of eggs, meats and fish.

Enjoy!

By Ali Slagle

INGREDIENTS

Yield:4 servings

• 1 pound cucumbers (about 6 Persian or mini seedless, or 1 English)
• Salt
• 3 tablespoons vinegar (red or white wine, rice or Sherry)
• 1½ teaspoons honey or granulated sugar
• ½ small red onion, thinly sliced and rinsed under cold water
• 2 tablespoons chopped dill
• Black pepper

PREPARATION

1. Peel the cucumbers in alternating strips and trim ends (so that the cucumbers soak up the vinegary dressing but also hold their shape). If desired, halve lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Thinly slice, then transfer to a colander set in the sink. Toss with 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt or ½ teaspoon fine sea salt and set aside to drain at least 5 minutes or up to 30.
2. In a medium bowl, stir together the vinegar and honey until the honey is dissolved. Shake the cucumbers in the colander to get rid of any moisture, pour onto paper towels and pat dry, then transfer the cucumbers, red onion and dill to the bowl. Stir to combine, then season to taste with salt and pepper.

….another wonderful meat sauce. I did not use the pork neck bones or the tomato paste and added 2 stalks of diced celery and 2 shredded carrots. Also, I only used about 1/4 cup of white wine. This is just my take on the recipe. You needn’t follow it.

Ingredients

• TWO 35-OUNCE CANS ITALIAN PLUM TOMATOES (PREFERABLY SAN MARZANO, or 2 cans of Mutti crushed tomatoes)
• ¼ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
• 2 MEDIUM YELLOW ONIONS, DICED (ABOUT 2 CUPS)
• 6 TO 8 CLOVES GARLIC, PEELED AND CHOPPED FINE
• 5 OR 6 MEATY PORK NECK BONES (ABOUT 3/4 POUND)
• 1 POUND GROUND BEEF
• 1 POUND GROUND PORK
• SALT
• 3/4 CUP DRY WHITE WINE
• 1/3 CUP TOMATO PASTE
• 4 BAY LEAVES
• 1 ½ TEASPOONS DRIED OREGANO, PREFERABLY THE SICILIAN OR GREEK TYPE DRIED ON THE BRANCH, CRUMBLED
• 3 TO 4 CUPS HOT WATER (Because I didn’t use tomato paste, I only used one empty tomato can of water.)

Directions

Pass the tomatoes and their liquid through a food mill fitted with the fine blade. Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a heavy 4 to 5-quart pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 8 minutes. Make a little room in the center of the pot, dump in the garlic and cook, stirring, until the garlic is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the pork bones and cook, turning, until lightly browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and pork and season lightly with salt. Cook, stirring to break up the meat, until the meat changes color and the water it gives off is boiled away, about 10 minutes. Continue cooking until the meat is browned about 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves and oregano then pour in the wine. Bring to a boil and cook, scraping up the brown bits that cling to the pot, until the wine is almost completely evaporated. Pour in the tomatoes, then stir in the tomato paste until is dissolved. Season lightly with salt. Bring to a boil, adjust the heat to a lively simmer and cook, uncovered, stirring often, until the sauce takes on a deep, brick-red color, 2 to 3 hours. Add the hot water, about ½ cup at a time, as necessary to maintain the level of liquid for the length of time the sauce cooks.
Skim off any fat floating on top and adjust the seasoning as necessary. The sauce can be prepared entirely in advance and refrigerated for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.

Pan Fried Chicken Cutlets: Another recipe from my daughter’s friend, Dina.

Ingredients:

One pound of skinless and boneless chicken breasts

juice and zest from one lemon

2 Tablespoons mustard

olive oil, salt

Marinate chicken in mustard, lemon juice and zest, a good pour of olive oil, and salt (to taste) for 30 minutes. Cover the chicken well.

Heat some olive oil in a frying pan, and when it is hot, fry the cutlets. Flip them when they are nice and brown. Serve hot.

Oklahoma-Style Onion Burgers

J. KENJI LÓPEZ

…a burger that is nearly as much onion as it is meat.

Ingredients

• 1/4 teaspoon canola oil (or any oil)
• 5 ounces freshly ground beef, divided into two 2 1/2-ounce balls
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium onion, thinly sliced (about 1 cup sliced onions)
• 2 slices American cheese
• 2 soft hamburger buns
• Mustard, pickles, and other condiments, if desired
• WHY IT WORKS:
• Using up to half an onion per burger and slicing onions orbitally maximizes onion flavor. 
• Smashing burgers into the pan maximizes browning. 
• Steaming buns on top of the burgers infuses them with beef and onion aromas

Procedure:

• Spread canola oil inside a large cast iron skillet with a paper towel. Heat over high heat until lightly smoking. Add balls of beef and press down with the back side of a spatula until completely flattened. Season generously with salt and pepper.
• Working quickly, spread onions evenly over cooking burgers and press down to embed onions into meat. Let cook with no further pressing until burgers are well browned, about 2 minutes
• Carefully flip burgers with a stiff spatula, making sure to pick up all browned meat from skillet. Let cook until onions start to soften, about 1 minute. Add cheese and top with top bun. Place bottom bun upside-down over top bun to allow it to steam in the onion vapors.

Note: We used 1/4 pound of 80% ground beef per patty and vidalia onions.

By Farideh Sadeghin

This easy, beloved one-pan meal is true Southern comfort food. Though smothered chicken often includes bacon, celery or bell pepper, this recipe strips it to its essence, relying more upon onion and scallions. The classic cooking technique of smothering has its roots in West African, French and Creole culinary traditions and, at its core, is a simple stovetop braise. Serve this dish with steamed rice or mashed potatoes, plus a side of collard greens or green beans.

INGREDIENTS

Yield: 4 servings

• ¾ cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon ground cayenne (optional)
• Salt and pepper
• 1½ to 2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and legs (about 2 of each)
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 cups chicken stock
• Steamed rice or mashed potatoes, to serve
• Step 1: Mix the flour, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, cayenne and 2 teaspoons salt together in a shallow bowl. Reserve ¼ cup of the seasoned flour, then coat the chicken in the remaining flour mixture.
• Step 2: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the seasoned chicken and cook, turning as needed, until browned all over, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside.
• Step 3: Melt the butter in the skillet, then add the onion and ¾ of the scallions. Season with salt, then cook until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook 2 minutes more, then stir in the reserved ¼ cup of seasoned flour and stir for 2 minutes. Stir in the chicken stock until smooth, then season with salt and pepper.
• Step 4: Nestle the reserved chicken into the gravy and cover. Reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes.
• Step 5: Sprinkle with the remaining scallions and serve with steamed rice or mashed potatoes.

Note: Can use whole chicken cut into 8 pieces.

 …a fluffy lemon olive oil cake with help from her pals Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the restaurateurs behind some of Jennifer’s favorite Los Angeles eateries, such as Son of a Gun. Texture is softer than you would expect.

Ingredients 

• 1 1/2 cups high-quality olive oil, plus more for the pan
• 3 large eggs
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 1 1/4 cups whole milk
• 1 tablespoon Amaro del Capo. (I wasn’t able to find this in a liquor store. Recipe suggested to use extra vanilla instead. I used Grand Marnier.)
• 1 teaspoon orange zest
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2/3 cup fresh lemon juice
• zest of 2 large lemons
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 cup Sugar in the Raw (for topping)
• powdered sugar for dusting

Directions 

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Prepare a 9-inch springform pan with olive oil and a lining of parchment paper. 
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, olive oil, and sugar until smooth. Then whisk in milk, Amaro, orange zest, lemon juice, lemon zest, and vanilla.
3. In a separate large bowl, mix all the dry ingredients: flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and slowly incorporate the wet ingredients. Whisk until smooth—a few lumps are okay!
4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle the Sugar in the Raw over the top and bake for about 50 minutes to 1 hour.
5. Let the cake cool completely before dusting with powdered sugar and topping with a scrape of lemon zest.

For this cake to reach its full potential, it’s essential to use a good olive oil, meaning an extra-virgin variety with a pure, quality taste.

Because of the cake’s olive oil base, the batter will be more liquidy than you might be used to. Once it’s transferred into a springform pan, the batter will be sprinkled with an even layer of coarse sugar. As it bakes, this will give the crust a crisp, golden, and crackly finish.

Note: I found that the cake turned out better in a smaller spring form pan with the excess making about six well baked muffins. The larger cake didn’t bake as well. No need to line muffin tins with parchment. Use foil baking cups.

The Silver Palette Cookbook

Makes about 30 cookies

Ingredients: 

1 cup thick rolled oats
12 tablespoons (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine, at room temperature
1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar; 1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup shredded unsweetened coconut
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 cup of raisins, chopped dates or other dried fruit

Directions: 

Preheat oven to 325° F. Spread thick oatmeal in a thin layer on a baking sheet and toast until lightly colored, 15 minutes or less. Set aside to cool. Cream butter and both sugars together in a medium bowl until light and fluffy. Stir in eggs, vanilla, coconut and lemon zest. Sift flour, salt, baking powder, and cinnamon over butter mixture and blend well. Blend in oatmeal, raisins, or dates. Lightly grease 2 baking sheets or line with parchment. Drop dough by slightly rounded tablespoons onto pans, leaving about 3 inches between cookies. Bake in middle of oven until edges are lightly browned, 16 to 18 minutes. Remove from oven and let cookies cool on pan for 5 minutes before transferring to racks to cool completely.

The Silver Palette Cookbook

12 Tablespoons unsalted butter (1 and 1/2 sticks)

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar (recipe calls for 1 cup of brown sugar but too sweet)

1 egg

2 Tablespoons water

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cup unbleached all purpose flour

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

3 cups quick cooking oats

1 cup raisins

Preheat oven to 350.* Grease 2 cookie sheets. Cream butter and sugars until fluffy. Add egg and beat thoroughly. Mix in water and vanilla.

Sift flour, cinnamon, salt and baking soda; add to the egg mixture and mix well. Add oats and raisins, and mix.

Form cookies on prepared cookie sheets. (Use a quarter cup measuring cup. Portion cookie dough into 1/4 cup balls, roll in between palms to make round then flatten making sure to keep the circular shape.

Bake for 15 to 17 minutes until edges are done but centers are still soft. remove to a rack and cool.

Note: Can add some chocolate chips, if desired.

*Amami Bar and Restaurant (*sweetness from heaven)

I have yet to get over my infatuation with this part of Brooklyn. So many wonderful restaurants to try. The first of the two is a Japanese izakaya style restaurant, an informal Japanese bar which focuses on socializing over food and drinks, however the food is of the highest quality. The restaurant, offering Japanese favorites, sources sustainable fish, free range meats and produce from organic farms. Everything we ate exceeded our expectations.

Forma Pasta Factory

The second, a modest restaurant, is all about pasta. Lunch was $16.00 and included a choice of a delicious soup or salad. All their pastas are made on the premises and besides their regular menu, each day has a different special. If you’re craving lasagna, come in on Sunday and on Tuesday for fresh ravioli. Their focaccia, served with each meal to sop up the sauce, is excellent even by itself.

Recipe from Daniel Humm

Adapted by Sam Sifton

The recipe is simple and bulletproof for anyone with a rimmed baking sheet and an oven, at least if you’re careful with the kosher salt. Opinions vary greatly over the amount we call for: a whole tablespoon. For some, that is many teaspoons too many. (For many others it is absolutely perfect.) Season to taste. —Sam Sifton

INGREDIENTS

Yield: 6 cups

• 2¾ cups rolled oats
• 1 cup shelled pistachios (unsalted)
• 1 cup unsweetened coconut chips
• ⅓ cup pumpkin seeds
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• ½ cup light brown sugar
• ⅓ cup maple syrup
• ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
• ¾ cup dried sour cherries

PREPARATION

1. Heat oven to 300 degrees. In a large bowl, mix together the oats, pistachios, coconut, pumpkin seeds and salt.
2. In a small saucepan set over low heat, warm the sugar, syrup and olive oil until the sugar has just dissolved, then remove from heat. Fold liquids into the mixture of oats, making sure to coat the dry ingredients well.
3. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat, and spread granola over it. Bake until dry and lightly golden, 35 to 40 minutes, stirring granola a few times along the way.
4. Remove granola from oven, and mix into it the dried sour cherries. Allow to cool to room temperature before transferring to a storage container. Makes about 6 cups.

Note: Perhaps use 2 rimmed baking sheets. If not completely dry within time frame, leave in turned off oven or out to dry in the air.