Author Archives: robertaklapper

by Kristina Cho

Shrimp with lobster sauce is a beloved Cantonese favorite, but it doesn’t have any actual lobster in it. The sauce, which is a glossy, savory sauce with ribbons of egg and thickened with cornstarch, gets its name from being traditionally served with stir-fried lobster. 

I made this dish for a weeknight dinner and was pleasantly surprised. It really tasted authentic!

The author suggests not to over mix the eggs. “I think the dish looks best with bigger curdles of egg, so avoid over mixing and allow the eggs to set up in the sauce before stirring.”

Swap out for broth. One cup of chicken broth can be substituted for the water and chicken bouillon powder in the sauce.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound raw peeled and cleaned shrimp (extra-jumbo, 16 to 20 per pound)
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 (1-inch) piece ginger
• 3 medium scallions, plus more for garnish
• 2 large eggs
• 1 cup water
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 2 teaspoons chicken bouillon powder, such as Lee Kum Kee or Knorr
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil (I used a tablespoon.)
• 2 teaspoons oyster sauce (bought in an Asian market)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar (tastes a little sweet but adding salt to taste should balance that out)
• 2 tablespoons avocado or olive oil
• Kosher salt
• Steamed white rice, for serving
• INSTRUCTIONS
• Peel and clean 1 pound raw extra-jumbo shrimp if needed and pat dry with paper towels. Mince 2 garlic cloves. Peel and finely chop a 1-inch piece of ginger (about 1 tablespoon). Place the garlic and ginger in a small bowl. Thinly slice 3 medium scallions (about 1 cup), plus more for garnish.
• Place 2 large eggs in a small bowl and whisk until smooth.
• Place 1 cup water, 1 tablespoon cornstarch, 2 teaspoons chicken bouillon powder, 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil, 2 teaspoons oyster sauce, 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar in a medium bowl or liquid measuring cup and whisk to combine.
• Heat 2 tablespoons avocado or olive oil over medium-high heat in a large frying pan until shimmering. Add the shrimp in a single layer and sear until golden-brown on the bottom and on the edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the shrimp and sear until the second side is golden-brown and the shrimp are starting to turn pink. Add the garlic and ginger and cook, stirring often, until the garlic and ginger are just starting to brown, about 1 minute. (I prefer shrimp more well done.)
• Reduce the heat to medium. Give the sauce mixture another quick whisk (the cornstarch tends to settle at the bottom). Pour into the pan and bring to a simmer. Constantly stir until the sauce thickens and is glossy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the scallions and stir to combine.
• Drizzle the eggs all over the sauce in a thin stream. Let cook undisturbed until the eggs are set, about 30 seconds. Gently stir to create curdles of egg.
• Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for a few minutes. Taste and season with kosher salt as needed. Garnish with more scallions and serve with freshly steamed rice.

By Melissa Clark

“The genius of this sweet noodle kugel — the rich, custardy casserole that is a staple of Jewish cooking — is that its top is designed to offer maximum crunch while its interior remains creamy and luscious. The secret: use a jellyroll pan…”

I have not made a noodle kugel in at least 20 years, but when I saw this recipe, it renewed my interest. The only addition I would add would be to grate a large, peeled apple into the casserole. There is no need to use a jelly roll pan for extra crunch, as suggested. An oblong, glass Pyrex baking dish will do nicely.

INGREDIENTS

Yield: 8 to 12 servings

• 1 cup raisins
• Sherry or orange juice
• 1 pound egg noodles
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces, more for pan
• 4 large eggs
• 3 cups cottage cheese
• 1 cup sour cream
• ⅓ cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• Pinch of salt

PREPARATION

1. Put raisins in a microwave-safe bowl or small saucepan and cover with sherry or orange juice. Heat on stove top or in microwave oven until liquid is steaming hot (about 1½ minutes in microwave or 3 minutes on stove). Let cool while you prepare kugel mixture.
2. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter an 11-by-17-inch jellyroll pan. Cook noodles according to package directions and drain well. Immediately return noodles to pot and add butter. Toss until butter melts.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cottage cheese, sour cream, sugar, cinnamon, lemon zest and salt. Drain raisins and add to bowl along with buttered noodles. Mix well.
4. Spread mixture in prepared pan and smooth top. Bake until top is crusty and golden, 25 to 35 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. (It might take a little longer to bake.)

Note: I soaked the raisins in orange juice. This added a nice flavor to the pudding.

By Julia Moskin

Rating4(6,962)NotesRead community notes

Chicken francese, sometimes called chicken French, is one of those rare restaurant dishes that’s truly easy to cook at home. If you can make chicken cutlets, you can make this lemony, buttery recipe; the only difference is an easy pan sauce that brightens the whole plate. This version includes lemon slices browned in butter, which are pretty and tasty but entirely optional.

INGREDIENTS:

Yield: 4 servings

• 2 eggs
• 2 tablespoons whole milk
• 1 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning
• ½ teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• ⅓ cup olive oil
• ⅓ cup vegetable oil
• 4 to 6 large boneless, skinless chicken cutlets (buy the cutlets thinly sliced, or buy regular boneless breasts and slice them in half horizontally to make thin pieces)
• 3 to 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed (optional)
• ½ cup dry white wine
• Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon, more to taste
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 3 to 4 tablespoons freshly minced parsley

PREPARATION:

1. In a wide, shallow bowl, whisk eggs, milk, salt and pepper until blended. Place the flour in a separate bowl. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.
2. In a wide skillet, heat olive and vegetable oils over medium heat until shimmering.
3. Working in batches to avoid crowding the pan, lightly dredge the chicken in flour and shake off any excess. Dip into egg batter, let excess batter drip back into the bowl and place in the skillet. Fry, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Adjust the heat as the cutlets cook so they brown slowly and evenly, with a steady bubbling. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined pan and repeat with remaining cutlets.
4. When all cutlets are browned, remove the pan from the heat and pour off the oil. Wipe out the pan with paper towels. Return the pan to low heat.
5. If making the lemon slices (if not, skip to Step 6 below): Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter and then scatter the lemon slices over the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring gently occasionally, until the lemon slices are golden and browning around the edges, about 3 minutes. Scoop out the lemon slices and set them aside.
6. Add 3 tablespoons of butter, the wine and lemon juice and bring to a boil. Boil until the liquid is syrupy, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour in the stock, bring to a boil and cook until thickened into a sauce, about 5 minutes. (It will thicken more when you add the cutlets.) Taste and adjust the seasonings with lemon, salt and pepper; it should be quite lemony and not too salty.
7. Reduce the heat, tuck the cutlets into the pan and simmer very gently until the sauce is velvety and the chicken pieces are heated through, about 4 minutes. Turn the cutlets over occasionally in the sauce. Place the browned lemon slices on top. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve, spooning some of the sauce over each serving.

Note: I made enough chicken for two dinners. The first night, I soaked the cutlets in a brine of salt water for about one hour. After rinsing them off well, I dredged them in flour and then dipped them in the egg batter. Once they were ready, we ate them with a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice. They didn’t need additional salt. The second night, I had more time and made the sauce. Both ways were delicious.

Your brine should resemble sea water.

By Eric Kim: This recipe is from a NYT article, Our 50 Greatest Hits, According to You.

Eric Kim slips a quarter-cup of fiery gochujang paste into a butter-garlic sauce to make this simple, six-ingredient dish, which has quickly risen through the ranks of Cooking favorites. A dose of honey and sherry vinegar balance the heat so you’re left with a dinner that’s sweet, spicy and just a little tangy.

NOTE: This is a delicious recipe, especially if you enjoy spicy food. I made the single serving suggestion, but it was still too spicy for me. When I make it again, I will use a teaspoon instead of a tablespoon of gochujang. The noodles don’t need much salt; I only added some to the pasta water.

INGREDIENTS

Yield: 4 servings

• 1 pound spaghetti or other long pasta
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 12 garlic cloves, finely chopped (about ⅓ cup)
• Salt and pepper
• ¼ cup gochujang paste (not sauce)
• ¼ cup honey
• ¼ cup sherry vinegar or rice vinegar
• Finely chopped cilantro or thinly sliced scallions (optional)

PREPARATION:

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to package instructions. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water. Drain the spaghetti and return to its pot.
2. While the pasta cooks, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a skillet over medium-low. Add the garlic and season generously with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic starts to soften but not brown, 1 to 3 minutes.
3. Stir in the gochujang, honey and vinegar, and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture reduces significantly, 3 to 4 minutes; when you drag a spatula across the bottom of the pan, it should leave behind a trail that stays put for about 3 seconds. Remove from the heat.
4. Transfer the sauce to the pot with the spaghetti and add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Vigorously stir until the butter melts. Add splashes of the pasta cooking water, as needed, to thin out the sauce. Taste and season with salt and pepper (pepper not necessary). Top with the cilantro or scallions (if using) and serve immediately.

TIPS

• Be sure to purchase plain gochujang paste, not gochujang sauce, which often includes additives like vinegar and sugar. To easily measure out gochujang, swipe the inside of a measuring cup with a little neutral oil, which will get it to slip right out.
• To make a single serving, follow the recipe using 4 to 5 ounces fresh or instant ramen noodles; 1½ tablespoons unsalted butter (1 tablespoon to fry the garlic and ½ tablespoon for the sauce at the end); 3 garlic cloves; 1 heaping tablespoon gochujang; 1 tablespoon honey; 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar or rice vinegar. Decrease the cook times throughout by 1 to 2 minutes

This can be found in an Asian market. Buy the smallest amount you can.

I have two new restaurants to recommend. The first, a kosher Israeli restaurant, Zula Grill, is in Englewood, New Jersey. Best to go with a group so you can sample many of their delicious options like their Salatim Sampler,
a bit of all the staple dips and salads that compose an Israeli dinner table. My personal favorites are: Babaganoush, roasted eggplant and tahina dip, Matbucha, Moroccan stewed tomato dip, the Classic Chickpea hummus with warm chickpeas and lemon, an Israeli salad, and the best ever Falafel with tahina sauce, all served with traditional pita bread baked in house. Of course they have a full menu which includes lamb, chicken, beef and fish and a Kids’ Meal section. And, not to miss in Englewood is ShopRite, a mega supermarket right down the street. Excellent prices, a huge selection of groceries, and if you spend $100 and have a New York license, they will give you $6.00 back towards your toll.

The second is Veselka, a Ukrainian diner’s newest location in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. My son and I went for brunch and really over ordered, wanting to try so much of their menu.

Their potato pancakes are quite good, served with sour cream and applesauce. They are large, crispy and fluffy – not like homemade- but enjoyable. I wanted to try their pierogis -Adam liked them, but I thought their “skin” was too thick. What we loved on this visit was their Ukrainian Borscht (beet soup), pickled red onions and cucumbers, their side of beets mixed with horseradish, and their blintzes, Ukrainian-style crepes filled with lightly sweetened farmer’s cheese and raspberry sauce. We want to return to try some of their classics such as: Beef Stroganoff, Veal Goulash, Chicken Paprikash, Ukrainian Meatballs, and of course, another order of blintzes.

By Naz Deravian

Pickled red onion livens up a wide array of dishes, providing a bright crunch and a festive fuchsia hue. The bite of the onion itself is tempered in a sweet, salty and sour brine. Choose from a variety of vinegars, depending on what’s in the pantry, including white, red or apple cider vinegar. For extra flavor, feel free to add a couple of garlic cloves, mustard seeds, allspice berries or coriander seeds to the brine. The pickled onion can be used right away or stored in the fridge for up to 1 week; their flavor will develop the longer they sit. Use them as a topping for any number of dishes, including salads, soups, eggs and burgers. 

INGREDIENTS

Yield: 2 cups (with pickling liquid)

• 1 large red onion
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
• ¾ cup vinegar (white or red wine, distilled or apple cider)

PREPARATION

1. Thinly slice the red onion by halving through the root and slicing in the same direction. Separate the slices by hand, as best you can, without getting too obsessive. Place the onion slices in a heat-proof, wide-mouth jar or container (about 1 pint capacity). It might seem like they won’t fit, but the onion slices will shrink as they pickle.
2. Add the salt, sugar, vinegar and ¼ cup water to a small saucepan. Heat over medium-high, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. As soon as the mixture comes to a boil, remove from the heat and pour half of the liquid over the onion, pressing down the slices with the back of a spoon. Add the remaining liquid, continuing to press down the slices.
3. Cover and give the jar a gentle shake. Set aside to pickle for about 30 minutes. Serve right away, or cool to room temperature and place in the fridge in the pickling liquid, covered, for up to 1 week.

From Debbie J, thank you. An alternative recipe:

1 cup white vinegar, 3/4 cup sugar, 1/2 cup water

Melt ingredients on stove and then keep in refrigerator. Cut up cucumbers, peppers and red onion. Put a good amount of dressing on them, add salt and pepper, and some feta cheese. Dress your salad 1/2 hour before you eat.

Note: I have been eating these pickled onions all week – on everything! It must be my Russian ancestry, speaking of which I want to recommend a terrific book if you haven’t already read it, A Gentleman in Moscow, by Amor Towles. It’s about a count, who after the  Bolshevik revolution of 1917, is placed under house arrest at his current residence, the Hotel Metropol in central Moscow. It is also a British television limited series consisting of eight episodes. Not to miss!

By Genevieve Ko

High summer produce comes together in this simple mix, tangy with lime juice and full of fresh herbs. Even in the height of the season, corn gets a touch sweeter when heated, and the easiest way to do it is in the microwave. It takes just a few minutes to zap the corn cobs in their husks, which makes them easy to shuck. The silks will slip right off the sweeter and still-crisp corn. Picking basil and cilantro leaves by hand then tearing them right over the salad keeps their delicate fragrance intact. Serve this with anything off the grill or alongside tacos or sandwiches.

INGREDIENTS

Yield:4 to 6 servings

• 5 ears of corn
• 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
• 1 lime
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt
• ¼ teaspoon minced seeded fresh habanero or other very hot chile (optional)
• ½ cup fresh basil leaves
• ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves

PREPARATION

1. Microwave the corn in their husks on high for 3 minutes. Shuck the corn — the silks will come off easily. (If you want to boil or steam the corn on the stovetop, you can shuck the corn first then cook just until brighter in color, 2 to 3 minutes.) Cut the kernels off the cobs, transfer them to a large bowl and add the tomatoes.
2. Finely grate the zest of the lime directly over the corn mixture, then squeeze the juice from the lime all over. Add the oil, a generous pinch of salt and the chile, if using. Mix well, then tear the herbs over the salad and gently fold them in. Season to taste with salt and serve, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 day.

By David Tanis

This 15-Minute Shrimp Dish Will Transport You to Spain. Sweet, briny prawns (or larger shrimp in the United States) are sautéed with lots of garlic and olive oil, finished with a touch of hot pepper, and ready in less than half an hour. Don’t leave behind the flavorful extra-virgin olive oil, which is perfect for sopping up. Quick! Someone get a crusty loaf for just that purpose.

Note: This is not a shrimp scampi recipe, although it uses most of the same ingredients. I cooked the shrimp longer than suggested and added small bow tie pasta at the end. Didn’t have a crusty loaf!
INGREDIENTS

Yield:4 servings

• 1½ pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined (about 20)
• Salt and black pepper
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 8 or more large garlic cloves, thinly sliced lengthwise
• 4 small dry red peppers, such as chile de árbol, or ½ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
• ¼ cup white wine
• ½ cup chopped parsley

PREPARATION

1. Rinse shrimp with cold water and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper on both sides.
2. Heat oil in a wide skillet over medium-high. When oil is wavy, add garlic, hot pepper and a pinch of salt, and turn heat to medium. Let garlic simmer gently without browning, stirring occasionally, for 2 or 3 minutes.
3. Turn heat to high. Add shrimp to pan in one layer, without crowding, and cook for 1 minute. Add wine and let it evaporate, about 2 minutes. Turn shrimp over and cook just until firm and pink, 1 to 2 minutes more. Stir in parsley and transfer shrimp to a serving platter or individual bowls. Pour sauce over and serve immediately.

By Melissa Clark

Spaghetti with tuna is one of those adaptable pantry dishes that you can dress up with whatever you have on hand. Just cook alliums (garlic, onion, scallions or shallot) in plenty of olive oil, add pasta water and al dente pasta to the pan, and finish with a can of tuna flaked on top. This version adds zucchini, fresh herbs and any kind of chili paste you like (gochujang, harissa, aji amarillo, sambal oelek or Sriracha) for brightness and heat. Just note that some chili pastes are more fiery than others, so if you’re unsure how much to add, gradually dab it in it, tasting as you go. Then make this in summer when zucchinis are abundant, or substitute other vegetables (eggplant, peppers, greens) as they come into season. Simple, thrifty and very satisfying, it’s an afterwork dish to make on repeat.

Yield: 2 to 3 servings

• ½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt, more as needed
• 8 ounces long, thin pasta, such as bucatini, spaghetti or linguine
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling
• 4 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated (You can use the whole bunch.)
• 1 pound zucchini, trimmed, halved lengthwise and sliced into ½-inch-thick half-moons
• 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 3 tablespoons drained capers
• ½ to 3 teaspoons chili paste, more to taste
• 1 cup roughly chopped fresh herbs, such as cilantro and mint
• 1 (5- or 6-ounce) can tuna, drained (I used tuna in olive oil and did not drain it.)
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste

PREPARATION

• Step 1: In a well-salted pot of boiling water, cook pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain, saving ½ cup pasta water.
• Step 2: Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the oil over medium. Add scallion whites and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add zucchini and ½ teaspoon salt, and cook until golden brown and tender, 7 to 12 minutes. Add garlic, capers and chili paste, and cook, 1 to 2 minutes, or until the garlic is fragrant. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
• Step 3: Add ½ cup pasta water, let it reduce until there is just a little left in the pan, 3 to 4 minutes, then add pasta and ½ cup herbs, and toss well to coat. Stir in tuna and lemon juice, tossing well. Taste and add more chili paste, lemon juice or salt as needed.
• Step 4: Serve, topped with remaining ½ cup herbs, scallion greens, and a drizzle of olive oil.

By Lidey Heuck

This simple chicken salad makes great use of leftover chicken, though you can certainly use a rotisserie chicken or roast or boil chicken breasts for this recipe. The recipe calls for classic crunchy mix-ins such as grapes, celery and pecans, but feel free to make it your own: Use a diced tart apple in place of the grapes, or toss in a handful of dried cranberries.

Note: I made this with freshly roasted chicken breasts, pecans, celery, red onions and grapes. If it’s going to stay over a day or two for lunches, I would suggest using the dried cranberries instead of the grapes.

To roast skin on, bone in, split chicken breasts: rinse and dry chicken. Place in a baking dish, rub with some olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast uncovered at 300* for about an hour until juices run clear. Cool before dicing.

INGREDIENTS

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

• ½ cup mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
• ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
• Salt and pepper
• 3 cups diced cooked chicken breast
• ½ cup finely chopped celery (about 1 large stalk)
• ½ cup seedless grapes, quartered
• ½ cup toasted pecans, chopped (see Tip)
• ¼ cup minced red onion (about ¼ small onion)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (optional)
• Toasted bread, lettuce cups or crackers, for serving
• PREPARATION
• Step 1: In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise, vinegar, mustard, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper; whisk until smooth. Add the chicken, celery, grapes, pecans, onion and parsley and mix well. Season with more salt and pepper to taste. (May not need salt and pepper. Taste.)
• Step 2: Serve on toasted bread or lettuce cups, or with crackers. Chicken salad will keep for up to 5 days in the refrigerator.

TIP

• Toast pecans on a baking sheet at 350 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes. (This might be too hot and too long.)